A place to exchange information about parts and kits supplied by http://kitsandparts.com
You are not logged in.
50 year old junk box ? No darned wonder everyone has a better junk box than I, I'm only 44 years old, myself
Thanks for the alcohol tip, I'll use that, I have some of that
W8DIZ wrote:
W4GNS wrote:
2
1. I get all my knobs from my junque box...it's 50 years old full of nice antiques
2. I use 91 pct Isopropyl Alcohol to clean flux from PCBs...available at drug stores.
3. FYI {advertisement} My DDS works...got the software to work yesterday. Must be similar to N3ZI`s DDS, about the same number of parts.
Current software version is designed to be a sig-gen. Need to create another version of software for VFO use...including bands, IF offsets etc.
My DDS project, hardware and software will go into the public domain, so you can modify the firmware to your need.
Kits will be available before FDIM-2010.
To modify my DDS, you need to review my QQ Freq Counter Project at http://kitsandparts.com/fluxbb/viewtopic.php?id=47
73, Diz, W8DIZ
Last edited by W4GNS (2010-02-13 10:23:41)
Offline
My junk box isn't 50 years old but some of the parts in it are 55 years old or older.
(Lots of stuff that came out of ARC5's and such. Also some tubes made in the 30's)
I probably started collecting electronic junk in the late 60's. Wish I hadn't gotten rid of all the sub-miniature tubes I used to have.
Also that box full of used 4CX150's (marked stolen from FAA).
Offline
Have you figured out about what price range your DDS is going to be in yet Diz ? with a parts count and software near completion you should have a general idea, maybe
Offline
W4GNS wrote:
Have you figured out about what price range your DDS is going to be in yet Diz ? with a parts count and software near completion you should have a general idea, maybe
Looks like about $25.00 for the Kit base kit.
DDS chip (AD9834CRUZ) will be sold separately at $12; you may want to order a sample from Analog Devices.
LCD will also be sold seperately as you may have your own stocl.
I will offer no-backlight, yellow-backlight and white- backlight at $10, $12 and $15
73, Diz, W8DIZ
Offline
Will you be offering a board with the DDS chip already soldered in place for those optically challenged?
W4GNS sent me two of your AVR development boards that had the DDS chip already mounted. The AD9834 isn't the hardest part in the world to mount (the AD9952 was worse) but for anybody just starting out with SMT it might be bitting off more than they can chew.
Offline
I bought one of these
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d … mber=97448 and it's the best money I ever spent, for working with SMT's and inspecting through the whole work also, and identifing parts such as caps. I have also found the blob and wick method to work well on SMT's such as the 9834. I shake like a leaf, so the blob and wick works well for me, and I have never damaged a componet using the method. Here is a link to a demo and some good writing on what I'm trying to say
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/tutori … ials_id=96 On another note, I ordered and used the Quick Chip stuff that Tom suggested, it works as advertised and should be in everyone tool box, only drawback is, it not very cheap, but it works very well
wa2mze wrote:
Will you be offering a board with the DDS chip already soldered in place for those optically challenged?
W4GNS sent me two of your AVR development boards that had the DDS chip already mounted. The AD9834 isn't the hardest part in the world to mount (the AD9952 was worse) but for anybody just starting out with SMT it might be bitting off more than they can chew.
Last edited by W4GNS (2010-02-13 10:26:14)
Offline
I have a similar magnifier with a circular fluorescent lamp and magnifier, but mine is mounted on a spring loaded articulated arm that gives a a long reach all over the workbench. I have to clean the magnifier often because one side gets coated with solder smoke and the other size with my breath "exhaust" from close work. (I don't smoke, but the normal moisture clouds the lens).
Offline
wa2mze wrote:
Will you be offering a board with the DDS chip already soldered in place for those optically challenged?
I am selling the AD9834 as an option to the kit.
Soldering the SMT part is not my favorite thing to do but I will at $4
I'd rather spend my time doing oher things ![]()
-Diz
Offline
I personally wouldn't have a problem soldering the chip in place as I've managed to solder atMega32's in 44 pin quad SMT packages as well as AD9851's both of which have the same pin spacing as the AD9834. OTOH some people would give up a project if it had ANY SMT parts so for them it would be a good option to have.
Which micro are you using on the DDS? Fitting all the required functions into a tiny2313 might not be easy (and you would have to program in assembler instead of using Winavr or avr-gcc) and wouldn't leave much room for expansion. At this time Atmel doesn't offer anything with more memory in the same size package. Designing around the atMega48 (28 pin package) wouldn't break the bank and would allow expansion to denser devices in the same pin out, all the way to the 32K atMega328. Also these devices can be programmed with the Arduino software as well.
Offline
Hey Diz, will the low pass filter bank of the MultiPig + handle 20 watts ? If so it will save me time and money
Offline
wa2mze wrote:
Which micro are you using on the DDS? Fitting all the required functions into a tiny2313 might not be easy (and you would have to program in assembler instead of using Winavr or avr-gcc) and wouldn't leave much room for expansion. At this time Atmel doesn't offer anything with more memory in the same size package. Designing around the atMega48 (28 pin package) wouldn't break the bank and would allow expansion to denser devices in the same pin out, all the way to the 32K atMega328.
Current working prototype uses a ATtiny2313-20PU. Firmware is ASM code. I stopped writing C code 20 years ago; find ASM much more convienient and faster. YMMV ![]()
There is a good chance that I will change the micro to a ATmega88AP. That way, purchasers of my kit have the option of writing C code.
I am including all my source code...be it in ASM, but still readable, at least for me LOL.
-Diz
Offline
W4GNS wrote:
Hey Diz, will the low pass filter bank of the MultiPig + handle 20 watts ? If so it will save me time and money
The toroids will handle 20 watts no problem, but the CAPS I use are rated for 50 volts.
I would replace them with 100 Volt caps in case you have a bad SWR ab\nd have wild voltages in your circuits.
Then again, the 50 vold "spec" caps will most likely work at 100 volts.
Worst case is one goes bad you you replace it.
-Diz
Offline
W8DIZ wrote:
wa2mze wrote:
Which micro are you using on the DDS? Fitting all the required functions into a tiny2313 might not be easy (and you would have to program in assembler instead of using Winavr or avr-gcc) and wouldn't leave much room for expansion. At this time Atmel doesn't offer anything with more memory in the same size package. Designing around the atMega48 (28 pin package) wouldn't break the bank and would allow expansion to denser devices in the same pin out, all the way to the 32K atMega328.
Current working prototype uses a ATtiny2313-20PU. Firmware is ASM code. I stopped writing C code 20 years ago; find ASM much more convienient and faster. YMMV
There is a good chance that I will change the micro to a ATmega88AP. That way, purchasers of my kit have the option of writing C code.
I am including all my source code...be it in ASM, but still readable, at least for me LOL.
-Diz
At least the AVR processors are much more friendly to code in assembler than PICs are! I do like the mega series AVR's much more than the tiny series in any case. Even if you code in assembler the tiny2313 is going to run out of room as soon as you try stuffing addition functions for calibration, switching BPF's via relays or diodes, band memories, IF offsets, etc... The mega series in the 28 pin packages can also be debugged using a jtag in debugwire mode. You get a lot more cpu for not much more money.
Offline
I just received a share package that has 1 each of the following, 12SJ7GT,5W4GT, and a 7B8, any use for these ? I don't do tubes
wa2mze wrote:
My junk box isn't 50 years old but some of the parts in it are 55 years old or older.
(Lots of stuff that came out of ARC5's and such. Also some tubes made in the 30's)
I probably started collecting electronic junk in the late 60's. Wish I hadn't gotten rid of all the sub-miniature tubes I used to have.
Also that box full of used 4CX150's (marked stolen from FAA).
Offline
Thanks, but I don't need any of those.
Offline
Crownhill has come out with a Microchip version of the Arduino. No "C" involved , and Open Source , they have there own Basic Compiler Amicus (Free), wish I had the bucks for the board http://www.myamicus.co.uk/content.php?116 http://www.crownhill.co.uk/level3.php?cat=270&sec=1 Let me rephrase that a tad, you can use C or any other lanauage that is known by Pics. They have a basic compiler which makes it ever so easy, I have there Proton Compiler, which is very simular the Pic Basic Pro, by MeLabs BTW The Amicus Compiler download has some super Docs
Last edited by W4GNS (2010-02-27 20:12:16)
Offline
Well I suppose if you like PICs it's a nice idea. I still prefer the AVRs for most projects because I can program in C, and if I have (or want) to program in assembler I don't have to deal with the $%@#! bank switching. I've built one project so far using a PIC (the LC meter) where the code was already written and didn't need any tweaking (though I did have some ideas on possible improvements). This application actually made sense for the PIC because its' IO was more suited for the task (timer and comparitor) built in that were more suitable than what was available in a similar AVR.
Offline
Good Point, I like it cuz' there is no need to know or learn "C". The Aurduno and Amicus or most likely not the best tool for folks who are comfortable with Pics or Atmel AVR's, but for us that or learning and or clueless its a cool tool, I'm gonna sale an item or 2 that I'm not using to get me a baord. Of course, its and open source project so the hardware could be homebrewed. But at any rate the Amicus does not expect you to know or learn C
wa2mze wrote:
Well I suppose if you like PICs it's a nice idea. I still prefer the AVRs for most projects because I can program in C, and if I have (or want) to program in assembler I don't have to deal with the $%@#! bank switching. I've built one project so far using a PIC (the LC meter) where the code was already written and didn't need any tweaking (though I did have some ideas on possible improvements). This application actually made sense for the PIC because its' IO was more suited for the task (timer and comparitor) built in that were more suitable than what was available in a similar AVR.
Offline
A guy on the SoftRock forum whipped up a page on a cheap homebrew SMD parts pick up tool and can be seen here http://garage-shoppe.com/wordpress/ and for the record both he, and I are fully aware of tweezers
Offline
I need help from any computer Guru's, Today I ran a Serial Terminal via USB cable to a Microchip® hardware platform, On 20 meters my noise floor jumped from S3 to S7, I have a generous lengh of USB cable so I wound 10 turns of the USB cable around a Kits and Parts FT240-61 ferrite toroid , but it was of no help, how do I quiet this commication down ? Other than stop the serial terminal ? I like to monitor HF while doing other things ![]()
Last edited by W4GNS (2010-03-22 19:12:49)
Offline
Do you have similar QRN problems with other usb devices such as printers, mice or flash drives? Is the usb cable plugged into a port on the front of the computer box, or on the back? Have you tried other usb ports on the computer? The USB cable between the computer and the micro might be bad, try a better cable (USB 2.0 cables are better shielded than 1.1 cables). Do you get the QRN with the usb cable plugged to the computer but not the micro? The other way round? You need to find out where the noise is coming from the micro or the PC.
Offline
Hi Ken
Yes, I have really bad noise with a usb CD/DVD and have to keep it disconnected at all times, until I need it, then promptly unplug when done. I have other devices pluged in and running via USB with no issues. When I plug this Microchip® (actually an Amicus board from Crownhill)in, I get a 4 second burst of hash, then it stops, (the board is powered via the USB cable) and all is well until I open the Serial Commications, then the noise level jumps up to S7 until I stop the commication, then all is well again. I have not checked all bands, but it appears to be just on 20 meters, I checked 17/40 and there was no noise. So in short, all is well until I open up serial comms
wa2mze wrote:
Do you have similar QRN problems with other usb devices such as printers, mice or flash drives? Is the usb cable plugged into a port on the front of the computer box, or on the back? Have you tried other usb ports on the computer? The USB cable between the computer and the micro might be bad, try a better cable (USB 2.0 cables are better shielded than 1.1 cables). Do you get the QRN with the usb cable plugged to the computer but not the micro? The other way round? You need to find out where the noise is coming from the micro or the PC.
Last edited by W4GNS (2010-03-22 20:31:44)
Offline
W4GNS wrote:
I need help from any computer Guru's, Today I ran a Serial Terminal via USB cable to a Microchip® hardware platform, On 20 meters my noise floor jumped from S3 to S7, I have a generous lengh of USB cable so I wound 10 turns of the USB cable around a Kits and Parts FT240-61 ferrite toroid , but it was of no help, how do I quiet this commication down ? Other than stop the serial terminal ? I like to monitor HF while doing other things
Change the toroid to a FT240-43 or FT240-31 - Diz
Offline
That fixed it ! Thanks Diz, I owe you a brew
W8DIZ wrote:
W4GNS wrote:
I need help from any computer Guru's, Today I ran a Serial Terminal via USB cable to a Microchip® hardware platform, On 20 meters my noise floor jumped from S3 to S7, I have a generous lengh of USB cable so I wound 10 turns of the USB cable around a Kits and Parts FT240-61 ferrite toroid , but it was of no help, how do I quiet this commication down ? Other than stop the serial terminal ? I like to monitor HF while doing other things
Change the toroid to a FT240-43 or FT240-31 - Diz
Offline
Papa Diz, Are ya gonna open up a thread on the MiniPig (BoarPig) rig on this forum, or will be exclusively on QRP-L ?
Offline